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,
M. Butkus, NJ.
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* AUTOMATION EXPOSURE CONTROL
6. Automatic exposure range
Your Fujica AZ-1 is capable of automatic exposure with the aperture and shutter speed combinations shown in the following table.
Click here to see the auto exposure range
chart
* The lenses that are provided with apertures of f/22 and f/32 are the wideangle, telephoto, zoom, and macro lenses. The minimum aperture of the
normal angle lenses is f/16.
7. Automatic exposure on stopped-down metering
Your Fujica AZ-1 is capable of automatic exposure on full aperture metering with Fujinon interchangeable lenses which are designed for full aperture
metering and on stopped-down metering with interchangeable lenses (including lenses of other makes) designed for stopped-down metering. In case you
are shooting with a bellows extension, extension tubes, or through a microscope, the light is measured with the lens stopped down. To take automatic
exposure pictures on stopped down metering, all you do is set the aperture, press in the depth of field preview button and hold it there,
then press down the shutter release button.
When taking automatic exposure pictures on stopped-down metering, be sure to attach the Eye Cup on the Viewfinder Eyepiece to prevent
extraneous
light entering the meter.
8. Exposure compensation
Under normal conditions, all the pictures you take with the camera on automatic (with the shutter speed selector set to "AE'') will turn out properly
exposed. However, if you are shooting on automatic for high key pictures (pictures in which the light tones are predominant) or low key pictures (pictures
in which the dark tones are predominant), or if you are shooting under the special conditions listed in the accompanying table, you will have to increase or
reduce exposure by first setting the shutter speed dial to +2, + 1, -1 or -2.
Special situations which require exposure
compensation - click here to see the chart
9. Manual exposure control
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To switch the camera to manual (mechanical) exposure control, just set the shutter speed selector to "1000'', '250'', ''60x'', or ''B''. · If the batteries go dead (from wear or freezing temperature) you can shoot with both the aperture and shutter speed set manually. (The shutter speeds available for manual setting are shown on the dial of the shutter speed selector.)4.butkus.org |
· When the camera is on manual, the LED light in the viewfinder will not turn on when the shutter release button is pressed halfway down.
· The 1/60-second speed on the shutter speed selector is used mainly for taking flash pictures. If the flash you are using is a Fujica Auto Strobo AZ, you
can shoot with the camera on automatic (set to "AE'').
· To take pictures requiring long exposures of 1second or more, set the shutter speed selector to ''B". The shutter will remain open for as long as the
shutter release button is held depressed so that you can trip the shutter when you want to.
FOCUSING
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In the center of the viewfinder of your Fujica AZ-1, you will see a split-image spot, a microprism collar around it which, in turn, is surrounded by a groundglass screen. Any one of them can be used for focusing the lens. · Eyesight adjustment If you are far- or nearsighted, one of the eyesight adjustment attachment lenses (+2, +0.5, - 2.5, and --4 diop.) that are supplied on option will come in handy. With the right one attached to the viewfinder eyepiece, you can focus the lens without your glasses. |
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1. Focusing with the split-image spot
Look through the viewfinder, center the area of the subject on which you want to focus the lens in the split-image spot and turn the distance ring. Your subject is in sharp focus when the upper and lower segments of the split image fall in line. Use this method for taking pictures of tall buildings and towers.4.butkus.org |
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2. Focusing with the micronprism collar
Look at the area of the subject on which you want to focus the lens through the microprism collar and turn the distance ring. Your subject is in sharp focus when it appears smooth and clear. This method is recommended for portrait work. 3. Focusing with the groundglass screen Look through the groundglass screen and turn the distance ring. Your subject is in sharp focus when it appears sharp and clear.
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4. Focusing by eye estimation Estimate the distance from camera to subject with your eye and set the distance ring to that distance (the white numbers on the distance scale are for meters and the green numbers are for feet;) However, if you are shooting with a large aperture or taking close-range pictures, it is always best to focus precisely through the lens. |
USING THE SELF-TIMER
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If you want to take a vacation picture of a group of people or a family souvenir picture with yourself in it, use the self-timer. (1) Mount your camera on a tripod, wind the film and focus the lens. (2)Set the aperture ring and check the shutter speed. (3) Fit on the eyepiece cap (included with your camera) to prevent extraneous light from entering the eyepiece. |
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(4) Push the self-timer lever all the way down. (5) Press in the self-timer button and take your place in front of the camera. You will hear a whirring sound of gears until the shutter is automatically tripped (in about 8 seconds) to expose your picture. · Do not depress the shutter release button after winding the self-timer lever because the shutter will go off immediately and the self-timer will remain inactivated. · Be sure to push the self-timer lever down as far as it will go, not just part of the way down. |
TAKING FLASH PICTURES
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1. Mounting the flash
If you are taking indoor or nighttime pictures, or pictures which require a shutter speed of 1/30second or slower, the best advice is to use a flash. (1) If you are using a cordless flash, just clip it into the camera's hotshoe. |
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(2) If you are using a cord-type flash, plug the cord into the camera's sync socket. |
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2. Setting the shutter speed Set the shutter speed selector to "60X'' (1/60-sec.)
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3. Setting the aperture (1)--1. If you are using the Fujica Auto Strobo AZ, use the following apertures:
(1) - 2. You can use any aperture (f-stop) to take automatic flash pictures but the shooting distance will differ with each (see graph). (1) - 3. To shoot on manual, refer to the instructions below to find the correct aperture |
(2)1f you are using any other automatic electronic flash, set the aperture ring to the specified aperture and the flash will take care of the rest. (Detailed
instructions are packed with each flash unit.)4.butkus.org
(3)1f you are using an ordinary electronic flash, to find the correct aperture, just divide the guide number of your flash by the distance from flash to
subject.
Examples: (1) If your flash guide number is 20 (ASA 100, meters) and you are shooting from a distance of 5 meters, the correct aperture is f/4 because
20 / 5 = 4.
This applies if you are shooting with Fujicolor F-II (ASA 100) film.
(2) If you are using Fujicolor F- ~ 400 (ASA 400) in your camera, the guide number will double so the aperture will be
f /8 because 40 / 5 = 8.
(3) Intermediate apertures not shown on the aperture ring can be taken care of by setting the ring to the smaller number (larger aperture). For instance if the
guide number divided by the distance is 7 (or between 5.6 and 8}, set the aperture ring to f/5.6.
(4) If you are using ordinary flash bulbs, set the shutter speed selector to "AE'', look through the viewfinder to make sure the red LED light is on opposite
the numbers 2-15, then shoot.
FUJICA AUTO STROBO AZ Guide Table
REWINDING THE FILM
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· If you have reached the end of the film and are winding it with the film advance lever but the lever feels abnormally tight in the middle of the wind-up, do not force it because the film might break. Just return the lever to its regular position and rewind the film back into its cartridge. After you are through exposing a roll of film, rewind it back into the cartridge and take it to your photofinisher as soon as possible. |
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1. Press in the film rewind button Press in the film rewind button. (Normally, it will remain depressed after you lip your finger but depending on the position of the film advance lever, you may have to hold it down with your finger while the film is being rewound or you can just give the film advance lever one full winding while depressing the film rewind button then release your finger from the button and wind the film.) |
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2. Turn the film rewind Crank
Erect the film rewind crank and turn it in the direction of the arrow until you feel a sudden release of tension. You have now rewound the film back into its cartridge. 3. Open the back cover Open the back cover by pulling the film rewind knob all the way up and unload the exposed cartridge. (The back cover will not snap open unless the film rewind knob is pulled outward as far as it will go.) |
· Be sure to open the back cover only after you have wound the film back into its cartridge.
HOW TO CHANGE THE LENS
An advantage of the single-lens reflex camera such as your Fujica AZ-1 is that you can use at kinds of different lenses. A large assortment of high
resolution, color-corrected Fujinon interchangeable lenses are available to you for taking landscapes, portraits,
for copying and for shooting snapshots. Besides the Fujinon lenses which are designed for full aperture light metering and are equipped with a safety
lock for precise lens positioning, you can use practically any lens which has a Praktica screw mount.
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1. Fujinon lenses (full aperture metering with lens lock) (1 ) Dismounting |
(2) Mounting Screw the lens in by turning it to the right (clockwise) until you hear the lens safety lock click quietly into place.
· Make sure the lens is securely mounted If it is not, your exposures will not be precise because the camera will not be able to give you the correct
shutter speeds.
2. Stopped-down metering lenses (without lens lock)
(1) Mounting
Screw the lens in tightly by giving it 2 to 2 2 turns to the right (clockwise).
· For taking pictures with this lens, refer to the paragraph on stopped-down metering on page 21.
(2) Dismounting Just turn the lens to the left (counter-clockwise) until it dismounts.
· The lens safety lock is not used in this case.
PART 2 - ADVANCED TECHNIQUES
SHUTTER SPEEDS FOR MOVING SUBJECTS
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(1) If you want to stop high-speed action at the revealing moment such as the movements of a pole vaulter in mid-air or a racing car driving at full speed,
just adjust the aperture so that you will get a fast shutter speed of 1/500 or 1/1000 second.
(2) If you want to make the waves of the ocean or the waters of a river or waterfall in your picture appear as though they are in motion, set the aperture
so that you will get a slow shutter speed of 1/15 or 1/30 second.
You can also use a slow shutter speed to make violent movements appear smooth and flowing.
CONTROLLING THE ZONE OF SHARPNESS
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1. Checking the depth of field
Look through the viewfinder and press in the depth of field preview button. The lens will close down to the preset aperture to let you see how well the
background has been blurred out and how wide the zone of sharpness in your picture will be. This is known as "checking the depth of field''
· Depth of field
When the lens is focused on a point, that point will turn out sharpest in your picture, However, all objects located up to a certain distance in front of and
behind that point of sharpest focus will also turn out sufficiently sharp and clear, and this zone of sharpness is known as the depth of field of a lens.
You can control the depth of field to draw attention to the main subject of your picture by blurring out
its surroundings or you can make your picture turn tout sharp all the way from foreground to farthest
background because the depth of field works as follows:
(1) The longer the lens focal length, the narrower the depth of field.4.butkus.org
(2) The smaller the aperture, the wider the depth of field.
(3) The farther the point on which the lens is focused, the wider the depth of field.
(4) The zone of sharpness in front of the point of sharpest focus is narrower than the zone of sharpness behind it.
INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY
2. Using the depth of field scale of your camera
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The interchangeable lenses of your Fujica AZ-1 have a depth of field scale (colored lines) etched on the barrel and these colored lines work together with
the colored numbers on the aperture ring. If the aperture is set to a red number, the distance on the distance scale which falls between the two.red lines
on the depth of field scale is the width of the depth of field. The same applies to all of the other colored numbers and lines.
Example: If you are using an F1.8 55mm normal lens and have set the aperture to f/8 (8 on the aperture ring) and the distance at 5 meters (15 feet),
everything between 3.5 meters (11 feet) and 8.7 meters (28 feet) from your camera will turn out sharp.
If you are shooting with infrared film in your camera, the lens will have to be focused on a point slightly short of your subject. The procedure is as
follows:
(1) Focus the lens on your subject as you normally would.
(2) Check the distance on the distance ring and move that distance opposite the infrared setting mark. Next, put a red filter on the lens and shoot. (The
infrared setting mark is the white dot on the left of the aperture setting mark.)
Notice: Be sure to follow the directions packed with your infrared film because exposure is not determined in accordance with the brightness of your
subject.
TAKING CLOSE-UPS AND COPYING
The following accessories are available for taking close-ups and copying together with detailed instructions on how they are used.
For best results, always use a tripod for taking closeups and a copying stand for copying.
· Close-up lens
With a normal lens on the camera, it will let you take sharp pictures between 28 and 50 centimeters from the camera.
· Extension Tube
With a normal lens on the camera, it permits magnifications ranging from about 0.34x to about 1.2x. Focusing can be done with the lens fully open
because it is equipped with an automatic diaphragm.
· Extension Bellows
This accessory lets you freely adjust the distance between lens and film plane. An ideal aid for taking close-ups and larger-than-life pictures.
· Reverse Adapter
If you are shooting larger-than-life pictures with the aid of an Extension Bellows, use this adapter to mount the reverse end of the lens on the bellows.
Your pictures will turn out sharper.
· Leica Thread Mount
This is used for mounting Leica mount lenses on the camera, but only for taking close-ups. It will let you mount enlarging lenses (these are Leica mount
lenses) on the Extension Bellows for taking sharp close-ups and copies.
· Rightangle Finder
Designed to give you a comfortable view through the viewfinder from a low angle or with the camera mounted on a copying stand. It will adjust to your
eyesight.
· Macrocinecopy
This is designed for copying pictures taken on 8mm and 1 6mm films. It can also be used in place of an Extension Tube.4.butkus.org
Notice: Excepting the Close-up Lens, light metering with these accessories is done with the aperture stopped down (refer to the paragraph on stopped
down metering on page 21.)
TAKING PHOTOMICROGRAPHS
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All you need is a Microscope Adapter for mounting the camera body on the eyepiece of a microscope. Focusing is done with the microscope. |
FILTERS FOR YOU FUJICA AZ-1
Your Fujica AZ-1 will take 49mm-diameter, 0.75mm thread-pitch screw-in type filters. Exposure compensation for filter is not necessary because the
camera measures the exposing light through the lens.
· Skylight filter
Yields clearer landscapes in color.
· Light balancing filter
For adjusting the color quality of the illumination to your color film.
· Neutral density (ND) filter
For reducing light intensity by a known degree. Used for exposing color and black and white films.
· Ultraviolet (UV) filter
Absorbs ultraviolet rays. Used with both color and black and white films.
· Yellow and orange filters
For better contrast landscapes in black and white and improved sky effects.
· Red filter
For taking infrared pictures. Has special tonal qualities of its own.
CLICK HERE TO SEE THE CHART OF LENSES FOR FUJICA CAMERAS
CLICK HERE TO SE SAMPLE PICUTURES OF 28MM TO 200MM LENSES
CLICK HERE TO SEE SAMPLE PICUTURES OF ZOOM LENSES (43-75MM), FISHEYE, MACRO, SOFT FOCUS
CLICK HERE TO SEE SAMPLE OF THE LENSES AVAILABLE FOR FUJICA CAMERAS
(1) EBC FUJINON . Fish eye 1: 2.8 f = 1 6mm (2) EBB FUJINON NEW 1:3.5 f=19mm (3) EBC FUJINON · W 1 :2.8 f =24mm (4) EBC FUJINON.W 1:3.5 f=28mm (5) EBC FUJINON ·W 1:2.8 f=35mm (6) FUJINON .W 1:3.5 f=35mm (7) EBC FUJINON.MACRO 1:3.5 f=55mm (8) EBC FUJINON 1:1.4 f=50mm (9) FUJINON 1:2.2 f=55mm (10) EBC FUJINON.T 1:2.8 f=100mm (11) EBC FUJINON IT 1:4.5 f=200mm (12) EBC FUJINON · Z 1 :4.5 f =75 - 150mm (13) EBC FUJINON.Z 1:4.5 f=54 - 270mr (14) EBC FUJINON · T 1 :5.6 f =600mm
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(16) FUJINON.Z 1:3.5 - 4.5 f=43~75mm (17) FUJINON 1:1.8 f=55mm (18) Macro Adapter (19) Zoom Lens Case (20) Camera case
(22) Macrocinecopy (23) Microscope adapter (24) Extension bellows (25) Rightangle finder (26) Fujica Auto Winder (26) Eye cup (26) Eyesight adjustment lens (29) Reverse adapter (30) Extension tubes |
CAMERA CARE
· After you are through shooting, be sure to trip the shutter by pressing down the shutter release button.
· Periodically, dust off your camera and wipe it with clean, lintless cloth. Use an air blower to remove dust and film debris from the interior.
· Guard the lens and viewfinder against fingermarks and dust. Use an air blower to remove dust. Fingermarks are removed with Fuji Lens Cleaning Fluid or
Lens Cleaning Paper. Do not touch the mirror because it will damage easily.
· If you are shooting sea-side scenes, carry the camera in a vinyl bag and take it out only when you need it. After you return home, wipe off salt and sand
with a piece of clean, lintless cloth.
· Take your camera to your service technician for checking about once every two years. It will give you better and longer service.
· Guard against dropping your camera on the floor and do not leave it in direct sunlight.
· Normally, your camera does not need lubricating. It should never be oiled or taken apart except by a qualified service technician.
· If you are not using your camera for a long interval, take it out of its case, remove the batteries, and store it away from moisture, heat, and dust. The
best way to store it is to keep it in a ridded container together with some desiccant, such as silica gel.
· Keep a note of your camera and lens numbers so that you can trace them in case they go astray.
· On hot days, do not leave your camera in your car or in moist places except temporarily for a very short time.
· In freezing weather, keep it warm by putting it in its case and carrying it inside your windbreaker and take it out only when it is needed.
