Exposure Compensation:

Though you learned how correct exposure is obtained, in unusual lighting conditions, the desired effect or the correct exposure will not be obtained in the final picture and exposure compensation is necessary.

Back-lit Subjects (when the light is behind the subjects):
1. Move close to the subject for meter reading, then, move back, focus and shoot.
2. If it is impossible to approach the subject, adjust either shutter speed or lens opening to overexposure. When you adjust the lens opening, open up the aperture by 1 or 2 stops.

Spot-lighted Subjects and Dark Backgrounds:

1. Move close to the subject for meter reading, then move back, focus and shoot.

2. If it is impossible to approach the subject, adjust either shutter speed or lens opening to underexposure. When you adjust the lens opening, close down the aperture by 1 or 2 stops.

Tips for Better Results:

·      When the shutter speed dial is set at "B" (Bulb), se the desired f-stop and expose manually because metering with the built-in exposure meter is not possible.

·      Do not make an exposure setting by pressing depth of field preview button or turning battery check ring because these will incorrectly influence the meter's reading

·      Outside of the meter's coupling range, the exposure meter will not respond correctly. For example, coupling range for ASA 100 film is from 1/4 sec. at f/1.4 to 1/1000 sec. at f/16 (EV3 - 18). If the light is too dim, use supplementary lighting.   

8. VIEWING AND FOCUSING

Since you are viewing through the lens, there is no parallax problem... what you are viewing in the viewfinder is exactly what will appear in the final photograph. This enables you to determine the exact com­position of your subjects before pressing shutter release button. Even when you shoot close-ups, these is no danger of accidentally cutting off a portion of your picture

. To assure the sharpest possible pictures, your KS 1000 has a three way focusing screen with diagonal split-i­mage spot, microprism-image band and fresnel field... select accor­ding to your subject.

 Look into viewfinder eyepiece to compose your picture.

 Split-image focusing is helpful for the subject with either vertical or horizontal lines. Rotate focusing ring until the split image in split-i­mage spot forms a single image. When it is out of focus, your subject is split in two parts.

Microprism focusing is good for the subject which lacks clear verti­cal or horizontal lines. Rotate focusing ring until the image in micro­prism-image band appears sharp.

You can also focus with any part of the area surrounding microprism-image band. This is most useful when taking pictures with ultra telephoto lenses or in close-up photography with bellows unit, macro lenses or extension rings because the other focusing aids may darken appreciably.

9. DEPTH OF FIELD

When you focus on a specific subject, an area in front of and behind the subject will appear acceptably sharp in your picture. This area of acceptable sharpness is called "Depth of Field". The depth of field is determined by the f-stop you select and the distance from the in-fo­cus subject to the film plane. As you get closer to your subject, or as you open your lens (for example, from f/16 to f/2.8(, the depth of field becomes shallower. By stopping the lens down (for example, from f/2.8 to f/16(, the depth of field becomes deeper. Knowing how to use depth-of-field allows the photographer to use the principles of "­selective focus" to eliminate unwanted foreground and background objects from his photographs, and could mean the difference bet­ween a snapshot and a successful photograph. The depth of field can be pre-determined in the following ways:

Depth of Field Preview Button:

Pressing depth of field preview button will set the lens at the corre­sponding opening you previously set on f-stop ring. This will enable you to preview the area of acceptable sharpness in the picture you take. The viewfinder will become dark corresponding to the f-stop you previously set on f-stop ring. Depth of field preview button will automatically return to its original position when you release it and the viewfinder will become as bright as before.

Depth of Field Scale:

After you have set the lens opening and have focused the camera, the area of acceptable sharpness in front of and behind your subject can also be determined on depth of field scale. Locate on depth of field scale the two numbers corresponding to the f-stop you have set on f­stop ring. The distance between these two f-stops on distance scale will be an area of acceptable sharpness in your picture. For example, if your lens is focused at 3 meters (10 ft.) and you shoot at 8 (f/8), the area of acceptable sharpness will be from 2.2 m (7.3 ft.) to 5 m (16.5 ft), by reading distance scale opposite both sides of the number "8" on the depth of field scale.

 

Tips for Better Results:

* Do not depress the shutter release button when depressing depth of field preview button.

10. INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY

For infrared photography using infrared films, a correction of distance scale is necessary because infrared light waves focus on a plane slightly behind that of visible light. When using infrared film you can compensate for this difference by focusing slightly behind your subject.

First focus normally on your subject and note the camera-to-subject distance opposite the distance index line on distance scale. Turn fo­cusing ring until this camera-to-subject distance setting is opposite the infrared index line. For example, if distance scale reads 5 m (16.5 ft) after focusing, merely shift the "5" (16) scale to the "•" (red) posi­tion.

 Tips for Better Results:

* Infrared radiation varies with the degree of infrared light rays in the atmosphere.

* For exposure, follow the instruction sheets which are packed with the film.      

Support the camera in the palm of the left hand, with the thumb and forefinger gripping the focusing ring.

The palm of the right hand should fit against the right side of the ca­mera body with the forefinger resting near the shutter release button and the thumb on the camera back.

Look through the viewfinder with the camera resting against the fore­head to help steady it, and the left elbow held in against the body.

As a general rule, the camera should not be hand held at shutter speeds slower than 1/60 second. This becomes particularly impor­tant when using lenses of longer than normal focal length, where it may be necessary to use even faster speeds to eliminate camera mo­vement. At speeds slower than 1/60, a tripod is a must for the shar­pest photographs.

IMPORTANT: When attaching the camera to a tripod that has a long attachment screw, adjust the screw to less than 1/4 inch to prevent damage to the interior of the ca­mera body.

12. CHANGING LENSES - This is a standard K-mount lens

To mount the lens on the camera: Mount the lens by lining up the red dot on the lens mount with the matching dot on the camera mount. Grasp the lens firmly around the lens barrel and turn it clockwise until it clicks into place. To remove the lens from the camera: Grasp the lens firmly around the lens barrel in one hand. With the other hand, hold the camera body and press lens release lever and turn the lens counterclockwise until it stops. The lens now can be re­moved.

 You can also change lenses easily without looking, even in the dark, by means of lens locator node. Line up lens locator node with lens re­lease lever and turn the lens clockwise for mounting the lens. For re­moving the lens, press lens release lever and turn the lens counter­clockwise until lens locator node and lens release lever line up.

Tips for Better` Results:

·     Whenever a lens is mounted on the camera, make sure that the lens is perfectly mounted.

·     Do not touch any of the internal parts or permit dust or dirt to en­ter the camera body when removing or attaching lenses.

·     Protect the inside of the camera by putting on the body cap whe­never the camera is carried or kept with the lens removed.

NOTE: A wide range of Sears interchangeable lenses including extremely wide angle lenses, telephoto lenses and zoom lenses are available to enable you to expand the pleasure of your picture-taking. Since the camera is designed to accept any lens with the "K" type bayonet mount, your KS 1000 affords you the opportunity to select any interchangeable lens or ac­cessory of the "K" type bayonet mount available on the market.

13. USING SELF-TIMER

Your KS 1000 has a built-in self-timer which delays the shutter re­lease a maximum of 10 seconds. This enables you to include yourself in your own pictures and is also of benefit in taking close-ups or pho­tomicrographs where camera movement must be avoided.

First, advance film advance lever. Then move self-timer lever coun­terclockwise. According to the degree you have moved it, you can adjust the operating time. For the maximum delay, move it until it stops. Press shutter release button to start the self-timer moving.

 Tips for Better Results:

·      You can set self-timer lever first, if you wish, and then advance film advance lever.

·     The camera should be placed on a tripod or other sturdy support when using self-timer.

·     When using a tripod with a long thread length (more than 5.7 mm), be careful not to forcibly screw in the thread further than the depth of the socket.

·     Turn the self-timer lever to the original position with your finger to disengage the self-timer setting.  

14. USING AUTO WINDER

The Sears KS Autowinder can be used with the KS-1000 and KS Auto cameras. By operating the shutter release button on^, the winder, it can be used for rapid sequence photography at ap­proximate 2 frames per second (at shutter speed 1/125 sec.). By first setting the selection switch you may choose frame-by-frame shots or rapid sequence shots according to your needs. You can for instance capture the rapid movement in sports, or the fleeting facial ex­pressions that make your picture-taking a more enjoyable experience

15. UNLOADING FILM

After the last picture on the roll of film has been taken, rewind the film and unload your camera as follows: Press film rewind release button. Lift up film rewind crank and turn it clockwise until film rewind release button stops revolving and you feel the film tension released. This indicates that the film has been completely rewound into the car­tridge. Open back cover by pulling up film rewind knob.

 

Remove the film cartridge and have the film processed as soon as possible.

Tips for Better Result:

·    Always unload your camera in the shade or in a poorly-lit place, never in direct sunlight or other bright light.

·     When you reach the end of the roll of film, film advance lever will tighten and refuse to advance. If this happens, do not advance film advance lever by force for "just one more shot", otherwise the film will be torn out of the cartridge.

·      Film rewind release button will remain in place once it is pressed, and return automatically to its original position when film ad­vance lever is advanced.

 

16. MULTIPLE EXPOSURES

Your KS 1000 has a multi-exposure device which allows you to make double exposures for special effect and lots of creative fun.  Make the first picture in the normal way.  Release the lock by sliding the multi-exposure Lock Lever to the left until the red dot appears. For the second exposure, advance film advance lever while pressing multi-exposure button firmly with the other hand. This will set the shutter for the second exposure without advancing the film and exposure counter.

When multi-exposure shots are not required, be sure to lock the multi-exposure Button by sliding the Multi-exposure Lock Lever towards the right until the red dot disappears.

 

Tips for Better Results: ·      Good results in multi-exposure depend on careful shutter speed and lens opening setting. This means, in order to prevent overex­posure of the final picture, we suggest that the first picture should be underexposed by adjusting either shutter speed or lens opening. ·     If you want, repeat the same action for the third exposure or more. ·      Whenever advancing the film advance lever for second exposure, make sure that the multi-exposure button is pressed firmly with the other hand and watch to see that exposure counter is not ad­vanced, indicating that multi-exposure picture is ready to be taken.

17. FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY

You can use a flash at night or in a dimly lit room as well as for sup­plementary lighting in outdoor photography. The camera and electro­nic flash will be fully synchronized with the shutter speed at "B" and 1 sec. to 1/125 sec.

 Cordless electronic flash unit:

If you are using an electronic flash unit with a built-in hot shoe con­tact, it can be attached directly to hot shoe on top of the camera pentaprism.

Exposure for flash photography:

The exposure is determined by the guide number of the flash bulb or electronic flash unit. The guide number represents a relationship bet­ween the light output of the flash and the speed of the film. Guide numbers for flash bulbs can be found on the package and guide num­bers for electronic flash units are found in the technical specifications. Using the guide number, you can determine the correct f-stop for a given flash situation using the following formula:

F-stop = Guide number / Flash-to-subject distance

For example, if your flash unit has a guide number of 16 (m) or 52.8 (ft.) for the type of film you are using, and your subject is 2 meters (6.6 ft.) from the flash unit as indicated on distance scale after focu­sing, divide 16 (52.8) by 2 (6.6). The answer is 8; therefore, set f-stop ring at 8 (f/8).

 

Tips for Better Results:

·     If you are using an auto electronic flash unit with power ratio control, follow the instruction sheets packed with flash unit.

·     Most electronic flash units have a built-in dial or exposure table which enables you to quickly compute f-stops based on flash-to­subject distances.

·    The Sears 8025 Auto Flash is available exclusively for use with the Sears KS Auto camera for automatic flash photography.

18. TROUBLE SHOOTING YOUR CAMERA

The proper operation of a precision instrument like the Sears KS 1000 camera requires strict at­tention to the correct manipulation of controls. In many cases, the camera may appear to malfunc­tion simply because some small detail was over­looked, or the operations were not in the proper sequence. Before you decide the camera is bro­ken, there are some things you can look for.

 

Problem: EXPOSURE METER NEEDLE WILL NOT MOVE TO TAKE READING.

Possible cause: Improper shutter speed/aper­ture combination for film and light conditions. Try changing the shutter speed/aperture com­bination until needle reacts. Or check to see that the correct type of battery is being used and has been inserted correctly.

Problem: FILM COMPLETELY BLANK WHEN PROCESSED, INDICATED NO EXPOSURE HAS BEEN MADE.

Possible cause: Improper loading. Review section on film loading and be sure you are loading the camera correctly with the film being securely attached to the take-up spool and winding in the CORRECT DIRECTION, that is UNDER the take-up spool. Film may not have gone through camera at all.

Problem: SELF TIMER DOES NOT OPERATE SHUTTER.

Possible cause: Timer not rotated at least 90 degrees.

Problem: LENS VERY HARD TO REMOVE FROM CAMERA. STOP IMMEDIATELY!

Possible cause: Pressure on film advance lever causing automatic diaphragm actuating plate to press against pin on back of lens.

THIS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE TO YOUR LENS. DO NOT FORCE THE LENS! Check to be sure the film advance lever is re­tracted.

Problem: FLASH PICTURES BLANK OR PARTIALLY EXPOSED.

Possible cause: Improper shutter speed for the type of flash used, or improper cord receptacle used for the type of bulb or shutter speed. Check Flash Synchronization Table carefully.

Problem: SHUTTER WILL NOT RELEASE.

Possible cause: Film advance lever not advan­ced far enough. A full stroke is necessary to cock the shutter. However, a ratchet incorpo­rated within the film advance mechanism will allow you to accomplish a full wind in a series of short strokes.

If the problems above cannot be solved in the manners suggested, do not attempt to repair the camera yourself. Take it to the nearest service center. A minor problem could be aggravated by tampering.

19. PROPER CARE OF YOUR CAMERA

·     Always carry your camera with its carrying case and neck strap.

·     Use the lens cap to protect the lens when not taking pictures.

·      Protect your camera from dust, dirt, water, rain, dampness, salt air and rough handling.

·      Never expose your camera to excessively high or low temperatures for an extended pe­riod of time. In extremely hot climates, do not leave your camera inside closed automo­biles during the daytime or in direct sunlight. In extremely cold climates, expose your ca­mera to the outer air only when in use... when using, expose your camera gradually to the outer air to prevent the lens from clou­ding. If exposed to an extremely cold clima­te, the exposure meter batteries may fail to operate properly. Keep your camera inside your clothing until taking a picture.

·     Never touch the surfaces of the lens, metal focal plane shutter curtain, reflex mirror, etc. with your fingers.

·     To clean the lens, gently wipe it in a circular motion with a lens cleaning paper or a soft, clean and lintless cloth.

·     Do not wipe the camera body with chemi­cals, such as benzine, thinner, etc. Use only soft cloth or cotton swab sprinkled LIGHTLY with alcohol on the camera body. Do not use them on the lens because it can affect coa­ting.

·     When your camera is not in use for an exten­ded period of time, put the lens cap on, re­move the batteries, place your camera in its carrying case together with silica gel or other desiccant and store it in a dry and cool place, Never store your camera in places where the temperatures are excessively high or low.

·     Do not attempt to disassemble or repair your camera yourself. If service is necessary, get in touch with your dealer.