PRACTICAL HINTS
• If the beginning of the film is not properly anchored on the take-up spool, it may slip out and will not be advanced on pressing the
combi-plunger. To check: Unfold the rewind crank and let it hang down. Hold the camera horizontally to see whether the crank turns when you work the plunger. If it does not move,
the beginning of the film has slipped out and must be fixed afresh to the take-up spool after opening
the camera back (see page 6).
• Deliberate double exposures (e. g. for trick shots) are quite easy, despite the automatic double exposure
lock. Proceed as follows: After the first exposure depress the rewind button, let go, and then
fully push in the combi-plunger. This tensions the shutter without advancing the film, and you can make a second
exposure. Then work the combi-plunger as already described.
If in doubt about the correct exposure, expose black-and-white film generously; a certain amount of
overexposure does not matter much. Underexposure, however, always gives poor results. With colour
film, exposure must be accurate; use an electric exposure meter at all times.
SPEED-SYNCHRONIZED FLASH SHOTS
| The SYNCHRO-COMPUR makes possible flash shots of moving subjects at any shutter speed, including
'/500 second. You can use the flash as the sole light source or else combine it with daylight
or artificial light. With against-the-light shots you obtain excellent illumination
of the shadow areas. All flash units on the market, including electronic flash, can be used with the shutter. Light-weight guns can simply
be pushed into the accessory shoe; larger ones are mounted on a bracket which is screwed into the tripod bush
and kept at the left-hand side of the camera (see. ill.). |
 |
The flash lead which connects the flash gun with the camera
carries on one end a round plug which is inserted into the sunk socket in the left-hand front door. The other end has the plug
for the flash gun. This is often a safety plug with one thin and one thick pin which can be connected only in the correct way.
THE SETTINGS ON THE SYNCHRO-COMPUR SHUTTER
Synchronization, exposure time, and aperture must be set
according to the type of flash in use to ensure that the peak brightness of the flash coincides with the instant when the shutter
is fully open.
Flash bulbs and electronic flash tubes vary in their firing delay
times, and are classified in the table on the right. The synchronizing lever on the shutter must be set to either X or M, according
to the type of flash in use (see ill.). Then set the shutter speed according to the values given under X and M and tension the
shutter in the usual way.
|
 |
For setting the correct aperture look up the so-called
"guide numbers", which will be found in the instructions supplied with all types of flash. The correct aperture number will be found by
dividing the respective guide-number by the distance in feet between the camera with flash and the subject.
(Aperture = Guide-Number / Distance)
X-Setting
The contact closes at the moment when the
shutter is fully open.
M-Setting
The contact closes a short time-corresponding
to the firing delay of class M bulbs - before the shutter begins to open.
Electrical Data - Click
here for chart of Flash Bulb Settings
The flash contact will carry the firing current of all types
of electronic flash tubes. With flash bulbs it will carry a temporary load of 10 amps
at 24 volts, thus allowing simultaneous firing of several bulbs connected in parallel.
The longest permissible exposure time in this case is '/,o second.
Caution: The flash contacts must never be used to fire bulbs from 110 or 220 volt
supply mains.
To avoid wiring up the leads the wrong way round, get
an electrician to fix the cable to the flash gun in the first instance, since the outer pole
of the flash socket is earthed.
FLASH CASE
The use of flash has become a matter of
course for the up-to-date amateur photographer, not only after dark, but also
in daylight. A flash bulb can give useful illumination to the often too black
shadows of against-the-light shots; it can give the subject an effect of sunlight
on a dull day, enable you to take hand-held snapshots with insufficient natural
light, and so on.
To save you the inconvenience of carrying
a flash gun separately, Voigtlander have created for you a Flash Case which
carries in the smallest possible space both your camera and your flash gun. When
you open the case and have inserted the lamp and done the setting you are immediately ready to use the flash gun because you can leave
the flash lead connected to the camera even with the case closed.
Please ask your dealer for the detailed prospectus. |
 |
THE "KONTUR" PUSH-ON VIEWFINDER
Quicker sighting of moving subjects and clearer presentation of
pictorial scenes - those are the invaluable advantages of the KONTUR viewfinder. The large eye-piece of
/s inch diameter gets rid of all the former viewfinder troubles, particularly for
spectacle wearers.
Keep both eyes open while sighting the subject. The eye watching the subject directly will see it in its natural size and brightness, while the
eye looking into the finder sees the frame outlining the picture area. You
will see the two separate impressions as one single picture in your normal
field of view.
A dotted line indicates the parallax error with close-ups from 3.3 to
6.6 feet.
Caution: Never allow direct sunlight to reach the eye-piece of the
finder. |
 |
 |
Push the KONTUR finder into the accessory shoe from the front of the camera
and push it back as far as it will go.
FILTERS - LENS HOOD
The high-efficiency lens of your camera will satisfy your most
exacting demands for superb definition, but you can greatly enhance the mood of your pictures and obtain special effects
with the help of filters.
It is surprising how often you can attain
pictorial effects with these simple aids which are quite unobtainable without them, and
they should not be missing from any photographer's equipment. Voigtlander Filters are
made of massive, spectroscopically tested, glasses and ground absolutely parallel.
Every filter is fitted in a bayonet mount and can remain in position on the camera when
this is closed. |
 |
The lens hood is indispensable for against-the-light shots and
those taken with artificial light, for it screens the lens from all stray light. It also serves to protect the lens from raindrops in bad
weather conditions.
The Leather Case for Accessories fits on the strap of the camera case and can take
three filters and the lens hood.
|
VOIGTLANDER FILTERS |
|
Type and Exposure Factor
|
Effect |
Yellow Filter G 1 I
1.5-2 x I
|
Slight correction, for outdoor shots with short exposures, action and
snapshots. Use when the sun is low in the sky
|
Yellow Filter G2
2-3 x
|
Universal filter for landscapes and other outdoor work:
indispensable for snow |
Green Filter Gr
3-4 x
|
Lightens green in landscapes.
Counteracts the green deficiency of pan-red films. Recommended for artificial
light portraits |
Orange Filter Or
4-6 x
|
A powerful filter which absorbs a great deal of blue light. Reduces the
atmospheric haze of distant views.
Lightens yellow, red, and green |
UV Filter
1.5 x with colour films only
|
Absorbs ultra-violet rays at
high altitudes and by the sea.
Counteracts the undesirable blue cast with colour film |
Filter Type A no exposure
increase with reference to daylight colour film of the same make
|
For using artificial light type colour film in daylight or with
daylight type artificial light (electronic flash).
Special instructions are enclosed with every filter |
CLOSE-UPS WITH SUPPLEMENTARY LENSES
Do not miss this highly interesting branch of
photography which, unfortunately, so many amateurs neglect. Large-scale pictures
of flowers, butterflies, and other small animals, small "objects
d'art" etc. may yield effects of extraordinary beauty. With the help of Voigtldnder
Focar Lenses you can, moreover, excellently copy pages of a book, stamps, or
small pictures. Care, however, is recommended in portraiture, as perspective may
easily appear distorted in this case.
The effect of the Focar lenses is that they
shorten the focal length: this permits the camera to be brought much nearer the
subject. Thus the subject is reproduced on a much bigger scale.
With the Voigtldnder Focar lenses you have three
close-up ranges at your disposal, viz:
FOCAR 1 (1.25 Diopters) from 2' 71/2"
to 1' 5 1/2"
FOCAR 2 (2.25 Diopters) from 1' 5'
1/2" to 1'
FOCARS 1 and 2 combined (3.5 Diopters).... from 11'/4" to 8'/4"
FOCUSING TABLE
|
Distance
scale on
camera
set to |
Plane of sharp focus when using |
|
Focar I |
Focar 2 |
Focars 1f- 2 |
|
00
|
2' 7'/2" |
1' 5'/2" |
11'/4' |
60'
|
2' 61/4" |
1' 5" |
11" |
0
|
2' 5 '/4" |
1' 4 3/4" |
11" |
15'
|
2' 3" |
1' 4" |
10' /2" |
^
|
2' 1 '/2" |
1'3,/d' |
10'/ ' |
9'
|
2" 1/2" |
1 3" |
10'/a" |
8"
|
1"11'/." |
1'2'/a" |
10" |
7'
|
1111" |
1'2'N' |
10" |
6'
|
1110" |
1'2" |
9'/u" |
5'
|
1'8'/Q |
11'/2' |
9'/z |
4'6"
|
1'8" |
1'19' |
|
4'
|
1' 7" |
1' 1 " |
9", |
3'6""
|
1'6" |
1"/z' |
8'/!' |
3.3'
|
1' 5'/2" |
1' |
8'/e" |
HOW TO USE THE FOCAR LENSES:
- Approach the subject until it appears in the desired size in
the viewfinder field. Then, according to the subject distance, fix a FOCAR 1,
FOCAR 2, or even 1 and 2 combined, on the lens mount.
- Now measure accurately the distance between the front of
the FOCAR lens and the centre of your subject and look up this distance in
the table on the left (second to fourth column). In the first column you
will find the figure to which the distance scale must be set.
- When using FOCAR lenses you must stop down to at least
f/11, particularly with three-dimensional subjects.
- No change in exposure time is required with FOCAR lenses
but, of course, when filters are used the usual exposure factor must be
applied. Filters fit on the front of the FOCAR lens.
 |
With close-ups the viewfinder image does no
longer correspond to the area reproduced, but is shifted upwards and to
the left (parallax - see ill. below). With the FOCAR 1 the difference is
up to 1/8, with the FOCAR 2 up to 1/4, and with the FOCARS 1 and 2
combined up to 1/2, of the viewfinder area. |
APERTURE AND DEPTH OF FIELD
The iris diaphragm regulates the amount of light which reaches the film, and thus controls the
exposure as well as the depth of field. Note that the aperture becomes smaller as the aperture number becomes larger,
and vice-versa. Going from one number to the next, the exposure time required is always doubled or halved respectively. For example:
| Aperture |
f/2 |
f/2.8 |
f/4 |
f/5.6 |
f/8 |
f/11 |
f/16 |
| Exposure (e. g.) |
1/500 |
1/250 |
1/100 |
1/50 |
1/25 |
1/10 |
1/5 second |
The "depth of field" of a picture is that part of the photographed area which is still reproduced fully sharp in
front of, and behind, the actual focused distance.
Note: Large aperture = small depth of field; small aperture = great depth of field.
You can read off the extent of the depth of field from the focusing scale and the depth of field indicator. The
values of the unnumbered distance settings are shown in illustration (. After focusing the
V mark points to the exact subject distance. Two series of aperture numbers are arranged symmetrically on either side of the
mark.
The depth of field then extends from the distance shown by the figure opposite the selected aperture number on the left to the distance opposite the identical aperture number on the right.
• For Example, if you have focused on 14 feet, the depth of field scale shows that at f/2 everything will be
sharp from about 13 to 16 feet, at f/4 from about 12 to 20 feet, at f/5.6 from about 10 to 25 feet, at f/8 from
about 9 to 30 feet, at f/11 from about 8 to 60 feet, and at f/16 from about 7 feet to 00
(infinity) T.
• To find the most suitable settings for aperture and distance for a given depth of field, set the limits of the
sharp zone required opposite two equal aperture numbers. For instance, for a depth from about 7 to
30 feet, illustration ® shows that you have to stop down to f/11. The indicator then automatically shows
the required distance setting.
CARE OF CAMERA AND LENS
Successful work and long life of your camera depend largely on correct handling and careful treatment.
• Do, please, handle it carefully and gently, and never use force. If anything should not go smoothly, it
is much better to read again the relevant sections of this booklet.
• Before loading the camera, clean off any dust that may have collected inside, with a soft brush.
• At the seaside, or when there is a strong wind outdoors, carry the camera in its closed ever-ready case
(beware sand); open case and camera only when making an exposure.
• You must avoid finger prints on the lens because they spoil definition. The windows of the view- and
rangefinder must also be kept clean, otherwise you will find it difficult to focus correctly.
• The lens is coated even on the outer surfaces (anti-reflection layer). It may be cleaned with a very soft
brush, or a piece of soft, clean, linen. Grease spots may be removed by gentle dabbing with a wad of
cotton wool moistened in medicinal alcohol or ether.
| |
|
ACCESSORIES FOR THE VITESSA
|
|
Designation
|
Art. Nr.
|
| |
Yellow Filter G 1 (light) in Bayonet Mount
Yellow Filter G 2 (medium) do
Green Filter Gr do
Orange Filter Or do
Ultra-Violet Filter UV do
Conversion Filter Type A do
Close-Up Lens Focar 1 do
Close-Up Lens Focar 2 do |
|
125/21
125/22
125/26
125/28
125/29
125/27
125/23
125/24
125/20
90/094
125/19
335/36
90/104
90/083
90/122
|
Lens Hood (Metal in Push-On Mount)
Accessory Case |
| for Filters, Focar Lens and Lens Hood
|
| Flash Case
|
| KONTUR Viewfinder
|
Camera Ever-Ready Case
in Brown Hide with Carrying and Neck Strap |
.............
|
Leather Case for KONTUR Finder
Neck Chain, Brass, Chromium-Plated
|