Whitfield pellet stove repair
Update 2- 8 - '14
Whitfield Advantage Pellet Stove - owners manual Whitfield Pellet Stove Public Relations Booklet - Advantage III, II-T, Quest ('95)
 Cleaning a Whitfield stove - company method  I have a number of Pellet stove manuals.  Write to the address below
 Whitfield Profile CDS  Astroflamm Integra manual  Pt. 1 &   Pt. 2
Cleaning your Whitfield Pellet Stove - Basics  Replacing the "low limit" switch on a pellet stove
 Merkle-Korff auger motor problem - 14 months of life  Pellet Stove Control Board Repair
Heatwave Electronics (way cheaper to fix them)

A Pellet Stove Forum on Hearth.com ! - Click here

 

Warning, this is for your knowledge only!.
I do not assume any responsibility to you or the safety of your property.
By-passing any safety features and you and your home can become ash!
This is what I have discovered and repaired on my own pellet stove.

Gas type fireplaces... call the gas company - period!

(2010 - yea.. check YouTube.com for pellet stove and you'll find videos on how to repair pellet stoves  ! !
There are also a lot of places to buy pellet stove parts on www.ebay.com and www.amazon.com

 

Updated Oct. 2012 - Hurricane Sandy... 8 days without power. 

Jan '12:  Dead auger

Nov. 2011 - DC converter / generator problems

I am the proud owner of a Whitfield Pellet stove, purchased in Aug. 1997.  After 4 years of use, being on constantly from November to March each year twenty four hours a day, one day the stove stopped running.  I tried to resolve the problem.  There were pellets in the hopper, power to the stove and the RED "heat" lights were on and the RED feed light would blink on and off every few seconds.  I also heard the motor run every time the RED feed light would to go on.  I emptied the feeder and watched the action of the feeder screw.  The motor would hum for the 4 seconds but the screw would not turn. I could turn the auger forward and back a bit, so the auger didn't seem to be jammed by anything. (I later found out the motor/auger is not bolted to anything and I was turning the whole assembly.  So a pellet or other item could have become stuck between the auger and tube)  It was February and cold and needed the warmth so I checked the tech page at the Whitfield web site (now owned by Lennox, that should keep the Pellet Stove department viable for years to come).  No help but the basics I already tried.  Their page stated that you should call a "professional" to resolve any other problems. The stove was installed by myself after years of having a standard fireplace, then a coal stove and now this pellet stove.  It was also a Sunday, no one to call and ask.

Update - 12-'03: Your Whitfield pellet stove runs for only 30 min. then turns off even with pellets burning in the pot. Easy fix!  Need a "low heat temp" switch.  Gotta have heat.  You can (for a couple of days) jump over the switch screwed on the exhaust fan to keep the stove running until the part arrives.   Click here to see photos of how to do this (assuming you have tools, knowledge and the replacement part)   Jumping this part will not allow you stove to shut off by itself.  So if you need to turn it off... pull the plug.

Personal thoughts: I get a number of E-mails about dead control panels.  If you see my story, I have my pellet stove plugged into a UPS for back-up power.  I am also thinking it has protected the control panel (about $280 + ) from various voltage surges.  So my suggestion. Buy a $60 - $90 + or so UPS and plug the pellet stove into it. A standard "surge strip" has a $2 part in them.  The UPS will have a very nice voltage filter PLUS if the power goes for a second or 5 minutes, this will keep the stove going and protect the control panel from various electrical problems.  Remember, the stove will expel lots of smoke if the power is out even for 2 seconds.

This information may assist you in fixing any pellet stove.

They all work the same way.  Pellet fuel is pushed (bottom feed) or dropped (Whitfield and others) into the stainless steel grate.  The dropping action seems to make for more ash as you can see the sparks of fire fly as the pellets are dropped.  If your electronic boards dies, trouble, yep. I had lights and a very quiet hum.  No power, check fuses and there is usually an internal fuse.  But they don't pop from age, something is wrong and NEVER replace a fuse with a higher amp one.  The Heat Control  seems to be a specialty item but as you read below you will see the control panel may just make an electrical contact to provide electricity to the feeder motor or fans.  Fan speed is usually a specialty item.  Sometimes fan motors have two coils.  One coil is for low, a second coil is for medium. Both coils on will give you high. They might be repairable, pull it out, or check the yellow pages for electrical motor repair shops.   The blower fans need oil! Oiled for life, yea.  Like the tie rods on cars are lubed for life or 70K when you replace them.  Whitfield has little rubber caps cover the front and back bearings.  The heat controls (under and over fire) are bi-metal physical contacts that should be available elsewhere.  If you find that they are defective, get a replacement don't even try to bypass until you find a replacement.  Check around, these are not specialty items to your brand, maybe another stove company could help. 
Auger motor bushings.  Big hardware stores have plenty of copper bushings or that's why there are specialty machine shops.  My pellet stove cost, haaaa, $1,829 when purchased it as an overstock from a California Hot Tub company, and that included shipping.  What a deal.  You may have paid $2400 and for a small part to disable and possibly need to toss it the stove.  That would be a waste of  household money.  If you have other information on Pellet Stoves, either a link I can use or information I can post.  Write to

This is an image of an electrical circuit to a Winrich Pellet stove.  More information then Whitfield ever gave.  From this image you can see they also have heat sensors for high and low cut off.  This is for reference only.  The scan is not so good.

Link to Wood Pellet Stove parts for various models

1.  I realized that the motor and electronics were working.  The two blower fans worked, the dual purpose of forcing air through the heat tubes (provides heat to the room) and pulling air out of the top of the stove to the exhaust tube (negative pressure).  I saw the RED feed LED (light) would go on and off. This is basically an electronic board that turns on and off a small feed motor (120 volts - warning!) that is geared down and turns a feeder screw that pushes pellets into the fuel chamber. The feeder screw only makes a turn or two each time the light is on. The longer the light is on the more it turns and feeds more fuel. The electronic board (priced about $250) just creates an closed circuit to the small motor depending on the number of RED heat lights on.  On only one heat light and every 10 seconds the feeder screw would make a 1/2 turn pushing in just 4 or 5 pellets.   My pellet stove has heat setting up to five lights.  On five, the feed LED light would go on and off every two second, pushing in many pellets.  You would need the GREEN blower light on a very high number to keep up with the heat setting on five or the safety electronics would turn in and stop power to the feeder.  An external thermostat works differently, it turns the feed and blower to low until the thermostat calls for heat again and the control panel returns to the previous settings.  More on that later.  If your "over heat" switch is broken (red label switch by back center - should be closed and provide a circuit below 200 degrees or so) your feeder motor will not get power, it seems directly wired to the motor circuit.  Jump that and see if the motor feed.  THAT "OVER HEAT SWITCH" NEEDS TO STAY UNJUMPED - get a replacement.

2.  If your heat lights (or dial) are up above two and after pressing the feed light and the feed LED does not continue to blink, your high heat safety sensor could be broken.  In the back of the stove, bottom center.  It is a bi-metal switch that, when heated to a certain degree, will change from the "open" circuit (over fire) to closed circuit until the temperature is lowered.  So this sensor will have two wire connection to allow electricity to flow to the feeder motor.  Sometimes after years of use they could break. Basically it is the same thing used in a coffee maker.  When this bi-metal element gets to a certain temperature, it turns off the hot plate until it cools and turns on again keeping the coffee to a certain temperature for hours.  Over the years I have not heard from anyone about the "over heat" switch going. It's not like the "low heat" switch always going on and off with starting the stove.

3. Repair of my problem was my next adventure.  I pulled off the exhaust pipe, pulled the outside air tube to the bottom of the floor ( I have outside air, actually crawl space air, feeding the stove from a floor opening from a former fireplace) and moved the stove around to get to the back.   I'm trying to remember here, as this repair was done last year.  I did not photograph the repair, I was in a hurry and for some reason did not have film that day. (days before digital !)  Not good for a photo nut not to have film.    I removed the center back steel plate.  It's just a number of screws, the back slides up and out so you really don't need to remove the screws.  From that vantage point I could see the feeder motor, the feeder screw.  It's not anything fancy, just a small impedance motor (no brushes to wear out) that I could see spin when the feed light when on.  I turned on the stove without the exhaust pipe connected.  MAKE SURE YOU BLOCK THE EXHAUST PIPE OR ASH WILL FLY EVERYWHERE WHEN YOU TURN ON THE STOVE!
    Without any heat, the stove will turn on for 30 minutes until the control panel checks a heat sensor that close a bi-metal switch (if the fire is hot enough) to ON making contact to the circuit board to continue to run the fan.  This is how the stove starts without a fire for those first 30 minutes.  If the fire does not start or the fuel runs out, this switch senses "no heat" and does not continue the exhaust power.  Should your starter fire not get hot enough, a room full of smoke! How nice.  I usually have a chunk of fire starter stick and a half a hand of pellets to start the stove.  That works every time.   If your stove turns on, feeds and turns off (fan) when a good fire is still going and the stove starts to "smoke" , that is your problem.  It's a bi-metal safety switch not turning on to continue the control panel.  There is a safety feature like this on your gas and oil burner.  The gas burner safety is by the flame of the water heater or furnace.  No heat and that sensor cuts off the gas switch after you push the "ignite" button.  On an oil system a sensor checks after a number of seconds, when there is a call for heat, if heat is coming from the furnace.  If not it shuts down as not to spray oil all over the place.  Furnace turns on with a timer, the bi-metal switch gets hot and keeps the furnace running, no heat and the furnace goes into safety shut down where you have to reset the furnace sensor.  This was not my problem, just explaining another one that the pellet stove could display.  If the feed shuts OFF after a medium to high fire after many minutes, it could be the  "over fire" safety switch that is defective.  Going off at a too low preset.    Follow the wires from the power controls.   There should be two, one for "over fire" (RED) and one for "heat" (WHITE).   The "over fire" is a bi-metal that will reset after the heat is low enough.  Don't know about other stoves.  Easy to check with a resistor checker.  At normal room temp the switch should be on (allow electricity to flow)  WARNING AGAIN - THE WHITFIELD AND MANY OTHER STOVES SEEM TO BE 120 VOLTS.  YOU CAN GET ELECTROCUTED IF YOU DON'T PULL THE PLUG!

    I then removed the power to the stove and placed the power plug next to me.  A nice safety feature since once or twice I did not do that and have come close to getting zapped or killed since I thought the power was off to the item I was repairing.  I remove the motor assembly to the feeder screw. Big time allen wrench was needed. Basically the motor, a small ac motor in a box, was attached to the feeder screw by an allen wrench.  Don't know the size but if you are up to this point you should OWN a bunch of allen wrench sizes.   Since this is American made, you don't have to contend with metric  size allen wenches. Don't strip an allen bolt, real, real hard to get out. The motor actually just sits in it's position and is not bolted down or anything.  There is a small space the motor can move back and forth and rubber bumper it sits on.

    You will note, this is the problem, that the motor faces up at an angle.  With the motor, and gearing off, I could turn the auger screw with no problem.  That means nothing was locked between the screw and auger wall.  A twig or something else falling into the auger could jam it good as the feeder motor is not made for power.  I CAREFULLY plugged in the stove again while watching the Pellet Stove control panel to see the feed light go on and saw the motor spin but could not see the main any of the other gears turn.  Oh, oh.  A stripped gear or something bad.  Knowing that this was a specialty item I assumed I was holding $95 or higher priced gearbox that was dead.  (I received a message Dec. 23, 2001 that someone paid $107 for the motor and auger part from a link then found on my page.)  After removing the power plug again and placing the plug by the motor location to make sure I knew it was unplugged I removed the plug to the motor/gearbox assembly.  (DO NOT TAKE APART THE GEAR BOX - SOMEONE DID AND SPENT MONEY FOR A NEW ONE AS HE COULD NOT GET IT BACK TOGETHER) I took apart the gearbox making note of what screws came from where. Writing them on paper for correct reassembly.  Opening the gearbox I find it full of greased gears and no metal filings that used to be gears.  I then noted the problem.   UPDATE: The fiber gears will (after some 5+ years will just wear out and then slip.. no matter how much grease is in them.

(Update: getting to the back see if the small motor shaft can be pushed UP by 1/8 inch by your hand.  If it can, see $.06 fix below)

    After 35,000 hours the bottom motor gear's "fiber bushing" wore out and allowed this tilted motor to slide down.  This moved the motor with a gear on it's shaft to lose contact with the first gear.  So the motor was just spinning, not making contact with anything.  This was caused by the back of the motor facing down wearing out that fiber washer.  I was very happy.  The back of the motor came off like any of these simple motors with two screws and two through bolts.  I went off to find a replacement washer to push the motor up and touch the first gear again.  I was unable to find a fiber one but did locate a metal washer that did the same thing.  The metal washer went towards the back bushing and the old fiber washer in front protecting the armature of the motor.  You can't replace that bushing with a metal washer as it will wear and make electrical contact with the motor, shorting it out.  I'm sure I could have gone to the store and found a replacement fiber bushing the right size.  I applied some synthetic motor oil to that bearing location on the motor.  The front part of the motor is inside the gearing area and had lots of grease to lub it.  Whitifeld states the blower motor bearings are "lubed for life" but I oiled them anyway with synthetic motor oil.   Just a few drops into the holes.  I replaced the motor, the electrical contact to the motor, the back and took out the cloth blocking the exhaust.  I placed everything back together and started the stove with only a bit of fuel in the hopper to check the movement.  The RED feed light went on, the screw turned.  Happy, happy, joy, joy.  This took about 45 minutes of time, not including locating my tools and stuff.

Click here to see photo 1:  I picked up two new auger motors on E-bay for dirt cheap. The blue washers is visible and you can see the space needed. 
This also shows the two screws holding the armature in place.  They can be removed to add a washer without tearing anything else apart.
Click to see photo 2:  The motor upside down showing the space between the armature and the back. 
Click to see inside of of a replacement auger.  Note; not much grease and the large end shaft has no grease on either side of the shaft.  If you plan to take off the cover, you must push the main shaft through the cover.  If you try to lift out the mail shaft gear, a bunch of other gears will fall out, as well as washers and spacers.   Getting them back together will be very difficult.

Items of interest

I have a manual for a Lennox Whitfield, write to me for a copy

4.   That was last year, February 2001.  We have just turned on the stove this October 26th 2003 and I remembered I did not add this to my home page.   I could have called some "professional" and replace the motor.  Two house calls ($$$$ each time?) and the motor that I could only guess would be in the $80 range ($107) for a stove that cost $2400.  I do not know if the "professionals" know this easy solution.   I did write to Whitfield and noted their "problem".  They responded with a form letter not stating they had any "design flaw".   I can only state that the problem was: their fiber washer when gently pressed by a rotating motor wore out, that wear of the washer thickness caused a loss of contact to the other gears.  Repair item would cost six cents.  Depend on who changes that six cent item OR replaces the entire motor is your repair cost after 35,000 hours.  Will it happen again, you bet.  I will state that the auger and bearings supporting the auger are made to last.  The gearbox has some thick metal gears that will last a real lifetime since they are also encased in grease.  Good old U.S.A. quality!   The motor has no torque so if something did get into the auger, the motor would just stop and hum.  A jam could not burn out the motor as the system only requires a few seconds of power.  Motors usually are built to shut down automatically if the motor overheats.  That feed motor is indestructible, they are typical exhaust fan, shop vac and those types of motors.  You know those types last for 20  years and this feed motor is only on for a few seconds every minute to feed the fire.   The front bearing is in grease and the back bearing is copper but that back motor bushing will wear down.  Whitfield states the blower fan and rear auger bushing is "lubed for life".  The front and back auger bearings are copper and "oil soaked" but how many months are they on?.  A drop or two of that SPT and synthetic oil sounds good there.  Not too much, they are by the heat.  Bottom feed stoves I would never oil the auger bearings.  They surely get very hot.  Anyone with information on bottom feed augers?  There are oil holes on the fan, even covered by a cap on my model.  They should go to an internal wick that holds lubricant by the bearing, and provide oil as it is used up.  The electronics have lasted four years.  Like any electronics in radios and computers they should last some 10 - 15 years or longer.  The electronic controls are not by any "hot" areas and have always been cool to the touch, so any capacitors or other electronics that make up this part should not fail from the stove's own heat.

5. Electronic Thermostat - You can have a thermostat to attempt to keep the room temperature to a certain preset level. The thermostat I purchased was an electronic LUX. The manual states NOT to use electronic thermostats, 12 years and no problem?? Again the booklet or website provides no information as to why you can't use electronic ones.  I think I remember it has to do with resistance, the electronic ones don't really break the circuit, just ups resistance.  I guess this one does, it's cheap too, some $20 or so.  The two stove wires go to W and RH contacts. These are CLOSED when the temperature is below the preset temp, acting just like the jumper wire in the back of the stove.  When the room temp hits my 75 degree preset, the contact open and the stove goes into low mode, low blower and low feed speed that both blink to show you they are in forced low mode.  Any type of furnace wire can be used to mount the thermostat in a location.  Just use the same two colors at each end.  It doesn't matter what color or polarity.   Hence you can set the stove to 3 and when it gets to whatever temp you set, the stove goes down to low until it gets to below the thermostat preset then back up. You can even set the automatic setback timer to set higher or lower temperatures by day or weekends that leaves the house at preset temps that will work with your schedule.  A simple contact switch hooked to the back furnace thermostat contacts can bypass the thermostat at any time and keep it on the pellet stove setting. If you use the thermostat bypass, it may just bypass until the next preset temp time over rides it.

Yes, the fuel you use, Stove Chow (best I found in North East but seem to no longer be in business) or other local brands,  determines the amount of soot left over.  I went back to Stove Chow.  The Agway brand was not as good.  UPDATE: Dry Creak pellet fuel in '03 is very good.  UPDATE:  Woodpellets.com  For the past few years (2014 now) I get 2 to 3 tons, deliverd on pallets.  I now have CLEAN FIRE - Pacific Blend brands the past few years and they are great.

Yes, the glass gets dirty, many attempts to stop that have failed.  Depending on my type of fuel determined how may days it would take to block the view of the fire.  There is some type of "glass cleaner" that is suppose to help. Haven't tried it yet. (UPDATE: Rutland hearth and stove silicon glass cleaner.  Gets it crystal clear, until it gets dirty again but wipes off with a paper towel for many weeks)

Yes I "OIL" the fan motor - I use an oil can with synthetic car oil.  Heard long ago from another homeowner web site  "someone had trouble with a cook top fan repeatedly squeaking.  He finally used synthetic motor oil on the fan and no more squeaks every other month".  The synthetic oil is great for HOT applications like that cook top fan and this fan right next to a fire blowing hot exhausts gases.  Basically the motors have a copper bushing that was soaked in oil during firing.  The oil is absorbed into the bushing and "permanently lubs" the bushing, there is "felt" surrounding the bearing that gets a shot of oil during assembly.  The oil is absorbed towards the bushing when needed.  There may or may not be caps to them.  If no caps. remove the motor and turn on one side and drip a few drops by the shaft waiting  a hour or more until the felt absorbs it and then a drop.  After many hours 4 or 5 drops on that side should have absorbed, turn to the next.  Or you could c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y drill small holes into the felt holders or disassemble the fans if they squeak.  Don't blame me if they don't go back together.  That is a last resort.

Do you have baseboard heat.  A 75% of STP motor oil treatment (yep, that old sticky gunk) and 25% synthetic motor oil and my old furnace guy swears he never had to replace the hot water pump bearings he's worked on for some 20 years.  That's my mix, he used straight STP, kind of hard to pump that through those oil cans.

My owners manual says have a "professional' check out the stove each heating season and to oil the blower motor each year but Whitfield now states that oiling the fan yearly is no longer necessary.   The oil holes are on my blower motor, they may not be on yours.  I just dust off mine, oil ever other year and bring on the two tons of fuel I use each Nov. to March.

I just read the Whitfield on-line manual. They require an Adobe Acrobat plug in but with modems it may take some time to download that program and then more time to download the big manual file. You can then save it to your Hard Drive after you download it.  Their manual shows a metal the outside air pipe and end 45% bend.  I would make sure that is covered with a screen or wrap a plastic or metal screen at the end of the heating season or bugs will use that as a hiding place and cut off your air supply making the fire a "slow burner".

This stove basically heats my one floor 40' square house in New Jersey. I have a "more power" UPS hooked up to this stove.  It has saved me a few time went the power died.  As you see from my other pages my two additions were done with 2X6 walls and insulated 10" floors.  A unheated crawl space is below the main house, but the furnace is located there keeping it around 40 degrees in the winter.  No insulation under the main house but wall to wall carpet.  My oil furnace uses about 100 gallons a year which includes all domestic hot water.  My pellet stove is on 24/7 from Nov. to March.  It is usually on heat #1 but when the temp drops below 25 it goes to 2 or 3 during times were are home and awake.  Fuel is about $3.75 per 40 lbs. when purchased by bag or $3.30 per bag by the ton.  Delivery is $18 per ton (well worth it as the discount purchase price is during July or Aug. and a hot time to throw around bags) and they are stored in a portable wood shed.   I have a rather large 5 inch hole the floor that did provide "outside air" to a former fireplace in the same spot.  I have a hose connected to a shop vac in the crawl space and through that hole an "outside air" hose going to the crawl space.  When the fire is out I vacuum the ashes to an old basement shop vac.  Twice a year I empty it and clean off the air filter.  Makes stove cleaning a dream.  (NEVER DO IT WITH HOT ASHES - EVER) A extension cord to the shop vac runs through this floor hole and I just plug in the extension cord to the wall to turn on the shop vac when I need to clean.  I let the stove die for 15 min to cool, clean and startup by 20 min.

Contacts:  (Chris Greenwell, San Francisco, CA)  stated:  < I have a whitfield stove and the problem was that the pellet screw wasn't turning (feeding the pellets).  Out of frustration, I took a coat hanger and jammed it in and out of the tube where the pellets fall out.  Much to my delight, it actually cleared away some clogged pellets and the screw started feeding pellets again!  So now I have heat!  I saved myself some loot and now I can be warm instead of cold.  I really appreciate you taking the time to write me though. >

Quick fix - My stove started to act like it was on heat 2 or 3.  Lots of flame when on heat #1. I used a screwdriver and turned the + / - dial by the feed screw.  Just a bit back and forth.  That fixed it.  It could have been that the contact on that variable resistor was lost/dirty and feeding at the max rate rather then the middle of the range.  Now the stove is feeding correctly again. Great when the temp is around 40.

HEATWAVE ELECTRONICS:  After Steve repaired his auger with my $.06 repair he sent out his controller for a repair to Heatwave.. this is his response:
<<< Emailed Janet and got a prompt email reply. She wanted me to call and speak to the tech (her husband Jim).
Nice guy and he knows his PCBs. Packed up the board and sent it in Priority Mail from NM to CA delivery in 2-3 days.
check the USPS tracking page and saw when it was delivered but no email from them to tell me it was.  Waited a couple
days and emailed to ask if the board had arrived but got no response. Finally gave in and called.
Jim said the board was fixed, tested, and had already shipped out. Would have been nice to get
that in an email with a tracking number.  Board arrived today. Was well packed and here's my opinion...
I can't tell that Jim was even in this assembly which deserves a round of applause and sustains what
I already had thought about his skills from speaking with him. I am impressed with the quality of his work
and the care he takes.  Installed the board and the II-T fired right up and us burning as I type this.

Anyone who has a control board problem (not just Whitfield) should box it up and send it to Jim with no worries.
As Jim tells it, the power supplies on the boards are marginal to begin with and they all will need to be
repaired or upgraded sooner or later. I'm gonna send my replacement board to Jim and have it done
before it even fails so I have a reliable spare... now that I spent megabucks last year when I needed it.>>>

 

Fire going out after a hour - 

I narrowed down the problem this weekend to be not the overheat sensors (2) but the air pressure sensor which measures flu gas exhaust pressure.  After some investigation I determined that a "spark arrester" screen that I had installed in the chimney cap had become clogged with ash and was causing back pressure in the flu. It was only partially clogged which meant the stove would run ok for some amount of time before new ash would practically close the opening.  It came to me during one of my moods of reflection (on the head).  I removed my screen and now the stove runs fine.  It proves the theory that machines do in fact "talk" to you.  Sometimes you have to listen very closely perhaps even look into your own soul.  Could it be that my "innovation" was causing the problem.  Impossible!!  You arrogant idiot.  Let the machine do what it was designed to do and don't screw with it.  I learned my lesson.  Thanks for your response.  (If your stove is on most of the winter keep the screen off.  Put it on in the summer to protect against bugs, ants, bees and rodents)
 
Take care,  Tom D

Smoke Smell cure?
If you ever get an infiltration of a smoke smell, not smoke itself but rather a heavy smoky scent - It is more than likely the failure of the gasket on the door to your ashbin below the firebox. Mine failed but I never thought much of it until this smell invaded my house....the blower must have been pushing air through that area and "freshening" the air with the lovely smell of smoke. If you miss that fireplace scent in your house than that is one surefire way to get it.....

More on smoke smell
Thanks for the suggestions, I think last night I found our issue. While cleaning the ash out last night I noticed that ash was falling in front of the ash pan door as I was scooping it out of the inside. So I looked very closely and found a small screw sized hole on the deck that came out in front of the ash pan door. I don't know if there was a screw there or a spot weld or something that we have knocked loose in our cleanings, so I put a screw in the whole and the smell is better. Hopefully that was it, I looked at the booklet on the stove and it does not show a hole there? Any way thanks for your tips! Thanks Carrie

Hartman Pellet stove - fuse blows
I went though every wire to check for shorts. Checked all three motors individually with 115 volts. All were working fine. So as I did process of elimination, I found that the large circuit board was shorting out. I changed both boards. I paid $96.00 for the bad order feed motor, Which I first found to be open circuited. $292.00 for both circuit boards. I did the work by myself.

Dead Circuit Board
My Sister purchased a used whitfield II pellet stove insert.  I forwarded your page to her (her address copied above)  .  She had a TV repair tech resolder her circuit board (It had a loose capacitor from the move to her house)

No Feed

My wife used a chopstick to dislodge a lot of crushed pellets and the looks that now everything is A-ok.
I also did the seasonal cleaning and boy was the thing dirty. )
never did get behind the stove to try turning the auger. I guess mine was just jammed.

Whitfield Profile 30

Thank you for your Whitfield repair site!!
I had an issue with my profile 30 pellet stove.  The auger was not working.  After reviewing your site and troubleshooting the motor repair problems I was going to try "jumping" the high limit switch.  I found that when I opened the side panel where the control panel is there was a "push rod" that activates a safety switch when the front door is closed.  My repair was a simple as adjusting the throw on the rod.
It's all back together and working fine.

 

No Feed - another story with a happy ending

Had to share my recent dead auger experience.  Yes, its the end of January and while we have no snow in Western Washington State it's still mighty chilly and YES it time for the auger to stop on our Whitfield Advantage II.  I checked all the connections as well as the temperature sensors - everything "OK". Took the leads to the auger motor and applied power directly to the motor.  I only got a humming sound but no movement of the auger.  Bad motor I thought.  I'm going to have to replace the motor anyway and so after getting it out of the stove I tore into it.  Being careful not to lose any of the screws or washers I took off the rear bearing assembly.  This is odd - the armature feels "sticky" - as if it had a film of heavy grease which was no longer viscous.  The rear bearing seemed tight when I tried to remove it after taking out the two holding screws.
 
Long story short:  I cleaned up the armature and re-greased the rear bearing, then reassembled the motor.  Once I put power to the leads the armature spun as if it was new.  I replaced the unit in the stove and had heat in a short time.
Diagnosis:  There is a lot of heat and pellet dust at the bottom rear of the stove which over the years appears to cause the motor lubrication to evaporate even though the grease is heavy duty.  This situation also caused the armature to develop a gooey film and the rear bearing to lose lubrication.  Because the tolerance between the armature and the coil is fairly close the combination of both issues - build up on the body of the armature and reduced lubrication on the rear bearing caused the motor to seize.
 Preventative maintenance:  I have no idea what P.M. cycle one should use to assure that the auger motor is free to turn and is properly lubricated, but my plan is to add an inspection of the motor and re-grease if necessary when I shut the stove down in the late spring.
 Savings;  New motor $95.00 plus tax or if on line the shipping cost.  Not bad for 3 hours work.  It will take less time now that I know what to look for and how to get at the motor.
 
Regards; 
John D, WA

Gerald A. 
No feed with motor running (my $.05 fix)
I purchased a nylon spacer from Lowes. ” X 1” X .194”. Cut with hack saw to 1/8” thick. Sanded smooth. ” X 1/8” X .194”. Worked fine. Stove back up and running.

Feed auger would get stuck
thank you for writing back so promptly I removed the auger and found burs on the sides of the auger which I removed with a grinder, the motor seems to be working fine.  What kind of pellets should i be using ?  The pellets I have came with the stove I'm sure they are old this is probably the problem (old pellets can grab moisture and become soft, possibly squishing between the auger and tube.  New pellets are very hard) thank you for your knowledge

Another auger stuck problem

I was able to fix my pellet stove.  After I unhooked the power to the convection blower and cut out the blowers noise, I heard the auger motor humming every
so often.  I attempted to twist the shaft auger shaft, but was unable to.  I had attempted to twist the shaft at the beginning of my quest to fix it, but because of
my inexperience, I didn't realize this was the problem.  I put more force into and heard it move a little, I continued to twist the auger shaft and the shaft began turning and eventually it began turning on its own. I left it running for about 30 minutes and the ultragrate nearly filled up.  I was surprised about how easy it was to twist the auger shaft, after it was cleared.  I could twist it with a touch of my finger!  So the problem was the shaft was unable to turn because of the pellet debri. Thank you so much
for the information on your site.  I hopi you keep adding more helpful information to it.  I agree, Lennox was of little assistance. 

You would need to remove the auger motor from the auger.  A photo on my page shows the bolt connection.

Cleaning the stove
One thing I did not mention.. when you clean... bang and bang a lot the insides and back. I have received a few E-mails with "slow burn" that was resolved because their stove did not allow getting the back metal parts off.  Getting a powerful vacuum cleaner (watch shop vacs, their filter may not catch the fine dust) at the back corners and banging the metal (not denting it) and the ash finally fell and was able to get removed allowing the fan to suck out the air again.   Be careful as ash will start to fly

New circuit board
Here are a list of things that the service man has done:
1)The first thing he did was clean behind the fire bricks and also through the vents behind.
2)He also passed a cleaning sponge through the straight  exhaust pipe to the outside and there was dirt but no obstruction.
3) He has oiled both fans.
4) He has unplugged the old exhaust fan and temporarily replaced it with a new one. When it is plugged in, it does the same thing: runs fast on 5, but spins considerably less on any other setting below 5. By this he deduces that it's not a weak fan but a bad signal going to the fan.
He replaced the circuit board and the stove is working properly again.

Cleaning Glass

 Mike,
 New to the pellet stove world and thought I'd send you a tip I discovered. When cleaning the glass on our stove I clean it thoroughly with newspaper and water with ash then use the smooth top stove cleaner. Once that dries wipe clean with terry cloth. Next time for cleaning glass the soot and ash come off much easier.
 Rich

Reliant Pellet Stove parts
<< The Phone number that is listed on the Internet for Reliant Pellet Stoves is incorrect. I called the number that is listed and got a pellet stove company in California. It was through them I received the correct listing for American Energy Systems from Minnesota.  This company carries parts for the Reliant Pellet Stoves. Their number is:  320-587-6565 or 1-800-495-3196. My husband and I have been searching for parts for our pellet stove for over a year - we've taken our stove to several dealers and repair shops but each time all we were told was that the manufacturer went out of business and parts are no longer available for the stove we have. I didn't think of going on the internet for the info I needed. This morning I finally did and found the parts in less than an hour - thanks to you for the info you have posted on what to look for when problems arise with pellet stoves. >>

12-6-'05  - Price for control panel near Scranton PA, $350

Stove Keeps Going Out

Hi Mike,
 
I had the guy from the pellet stove company out today.  He was telling me that the seal around the ash door was gone (it was never there).  He put a seal in.  He also adjusted the catch on that door, as it stopped catching and may have been letting in too much air. He also actually turned the Combustion Air screw DOWN.  Imagine that.  When I called them, they told me to turn it up.  That with the leak in the ash box, no wonder it wouldn't stay lit.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.  I appreciate the assistance.

Fire going out - I told her to check the exhaust air coming from the fan.
After getting your e-mail and checking further on my chimney, I discovered that there was no exhaust pressure outside.  I stopped the stove, let it cool off and removed the chimney from the back.  Started the exhaust fan and there was nothing coming out of it.  So I removed the fan from the collector manifold and it was dirty inside, cleaned it well with the shop-vac, reinstalled the exhaust fan and tested it.  Still no pressure.  Took it out again and decided to remove the manifold from the back wall.  There are openings on both sides, left and right and they lead to the suction openings behind the air tubes on top.  There was my problem.  The suction tubes for the exhaust fan were blocked.  They are quite hard to reach.  With a coat hanger wire I managed to poke in from behind the air tubes and loosen the ash.  Using a flat adapter on the vac.  I squeezed in between the side and the last tube and sucked out what I could.  But it was not enough.  After removing all I could from the top on both sides, I returned to the back and started from the opening where the manifold attached.  Did the right side with the hanger, poking and sucking out with the flat attachment and also tapping the metal back with a small hammer loosened a lot of creosote.  So after the right side was clear, I started on the left which is another story to access with the vac because you have the auger in your way and also the air fan on the right.  I made sort of a U with the hanger ,inserted one end and by pulling the other in a poking motion, manage to loosen a lot of soot.  Problem was that I could not use the vac, no room.  I finally found a solution.  I used a 1 1/2 foot lengh of automotive 3/4 in heater hose,  greased the end and inserted it on the flat attachment for the vac.  Using this, I could work from the right side, bend the hose in a U and suck out of the left tunnel.  It took me a while working from the front and the back,but I finally managed to clear it.  Put the manifold back in place, coating the paper gasket with Permatex gasket maker, reinstalled the exhaust fan, also using the Permatex, plugged the stove, put my hand over the fan outlet and started the fans. What a difference, lots of pressure.  Reinstalled the chimney and started the stove with pellets. The stove is now performing as it should.  My damper is only slightly open, feed at mid low, beautiful flame and heat.  And now I get a lot of response as my flame really jumps when I open the damper.  So that was my problem and my solution.  Because I work the stove for about 5 months at low, I guess, ash build-up is heavier.  So next year I will perform the same clean-up at start-up and enjoy my stove for the whole season.  Thank you very much for your coaching and tips

Stove always on low - Again... it's the jumper switch on back OR the wiring to that jumper switch !  One owners valuable fix.
The problem with my Whitfield Advantage II pellet stove. Having just purchase this unit used and knowing it was only working on low and not knowing anything about pellet stoves it was a challenge to me to fix it. What I mean about only working on low is low fan speed and low pellet feed no matter where you set the fan or feed. I read your web site for help and tested all the temp sensors and the pressure switch with all checking out good. Ok so now what due I due? Well I read over your pages again and found that an external thermostat could be used to control the stove. That gave me an idea so back to the shop for more testing. First thing I did was unplug the stove next I took the back cover off and looked at the wiring from the control panel (circuit board) down to the thermostat connection. All of this tested OK. So I went to the thermostat connection it self and looked at the jumped lead. It was there. I decided to pull the jumper out, it was not making contact to both thermostat connections. That was the problem. I made a jumper lead to connect the two wires together on the back of the circuit board and that fixed it. The snap type connector on the back of the stove for the thermostat wires to connect to was cracked and that is why the jumper did not make a connection. It works fine now, not bad for a 10-cent fix on a stove I paid $450.00 for one week before. I hope this helps somebody with their stove. Thank you for yours.  Glenn   Fresno,ca .

Problem with fire:
Well I’m finally through with that bag of pellets and its back to working fine!!
Guess you can have a bad bag of fuel !

Hi Michael,

 
I did finally find someone to work on the pellet stove.  His name is William (Kerry) Fleming, and his number is 408 373 3993.  San Jose, California  He did a good job, cleared all the blockages, and sealed all the holes.  It is finally working correctly again.  Please feel free to forward his name and # to anyone who may contact you. 
 
Just fyi, most of the gunk was in the fan cage, and in the ducting to the outside.

<<<Smoke from Stove: >>>

Thought you would like to know that I found out what was causing the pellet stove to smoke . The electric element that starts the stove was dirty . After taking it apart and cleaning it the stove no longer smokes when starting up. Now a part of the daily cleaning I vacuum that as well . 
I also tried using the ceramic stove topcleaner on the glass as suggested on your site and found that it worked very well. mostly I just use windshield washer fluid to clean all my glass.

Feeder not working right:
Hi Mike,
I removed the motor and auger assembly and when I looked up the auger cavity I found a ball of thick string stuck up there. I took a coat hanger and removed it. The stove is working great now. I probably saved myself a $100 dollars or so. I'm guessing that when they fill the bags with pellets it probably got tossed into the bag. Thanks again for all your help


<<<Not burning right:>>>

I found my problem was the venting. I had four 90 Degree elbows. Apparently this causes problems with the combustion fan not having the strength to properly vent. I just went up three feet then straight out and it seems to be working properly. Its been a full time job with this stove. I hope I can relax now for the winter. Thanks again for your help.

Replacement rods in pot

This might save someone a bunch of bux.
 
Several of the more centered rods in our Whitfield Advantage Ultragrate were about burnt out.  Checking at replacement costs, I almost had heart failure.  A friend suggested I simply replace the near burnt out rods with sections of drill bits.
 
Checking the grate, the rods are welded to the body on one side.  Grinding off the weld made it easy to tap out the worn out rods with a drift and hammer.  Next, after searching through the dull drill bit box, I found several old bits slightly larger than the holes for the old rods.  Tapping the shank end in first resulted in little if any of the actual bit portion being exposed.  The protruding ends were scored with a hack saw and broke off.
 
I have used this grate with the "new" rods for several months now and there is no sign of wear.  This sure beats the price of a new grate.

Hope this helps someone,  Mike (not me)

<<<Stove not feeding enough pellets, stove would quit if not on 4 or 5>>>>

Thursday, January 11, 2007
 
Mike,
 
Just a quick update.  Took apart the auger system and inspected everything.  I could not see anything that would be restricting the pellet feed.  The feed tube was clear, etc.  Thought possible that there may have been too much slop in the bushings for the auger shaft but unsure.  
 
I removed all the pellets from the hopper and visually inspected were the pellets drop into the auger system.  Everything looked fine.
 
I also verified that my auger motor was working to the specs that were in the manual you sent me (rotation per minute, etc).
 
Decided to see if maybe it would work after being disassembled and reassembled.
I put everything back together, primed the auger and hooked up the motor. 
 
Of course now it works fine.  I have no idea what was causing the problem, possible jammed pellets from all the sawdust, etc.   Really don’t know.  Once again, thanks for all your help and the manual.
After a few days... problems again.

It took a few more days to get the brass bushing (finding the right guy to talk to), and a few more days to run the pellet stove to make sure the problem was fixed.  The new bushing did fix the problem.  It cost $4 with shipping included.  It only took minutes to replace.  I have four bags through it now with no problems.  It was locking up about every 1/3 bag.

 
The problem is in the bushing combined with dusty pellets.  The old bushing developed a wear ring as it turned against the plate that holds the auger in place.  The wear ring had a sharp edge that would lock the auger from sliding up and down along its length.  Eventually the dust would stick under the bushing flange and lock the whole thing up because the auger could not rise to release the pressure on the bushing flange.  If you want pics I can send them.. 

 


Squeaking auger / pellets getting stuck
 

However, I decided that since I had the motor off, I was going to check the augur. I took it out and cleaned. I lubed the parts and replaced the motor. When I prepared to dump the pellets, I noticed that the augar looked different. It appeared tight or closer to the bottom of the hopper. Before the auger had enough clearance for pellets to get between the bottom of the hopper and the lowest blade on the augar. Now the clearance is millimetres. I've concluded that the augar blade was loose and the squealing was caused due to the auger not being completely fitting into the top of the stove. It's been running for over 4 hours now without a hitch. *tapping head* Knock on wood.
 

I have a Winrich pellet stove which rather suddenly stopped feeding pellets. It would feed briefly and then stop altogether, but that only lasted for a very short time until it completely failed to feed. First thought was a jammed auger, but I turned it backwards and forward by hand pretty easily, so it wasn't a jam. I then watched the auger motor as I hit the manual pellet feed button. I could hear a slight hum, and the motor spindle might turn and then stop. I could, by hand, get it sometimes to turn again and it might go for a few seconds and then it would stop again, while the motor still hummed - so it was getting juice. I took the motor off and checked it out (bushings, etc.) and all looked fine. I then took off the auger gearbox by removing the retaining bolt that holds the gearbox spindle to the tail of the auger. I then carefully opened the gearbox and quickly saw that the gears were dry and all the grease was in one little ball. After carefully noting the positions of the gears, washers, and nylon bushings, I disassembled the gears and applied grease. After reassembling the gearbox and getting it and the motor back on the stove, all was fine. The problem was that the gears were too dry and the friction thus too strong for the auger motor. Note that the auger motor and gearbox on this stove are nearly identical to the ones in the links above for the Whitfield.
<<<< As noted on my $.05 fix the Whitfield auger motor had plenty of grease in it.  Maybe other makes aren't as greased.  I did hear from one stove owner that took apart the auger gearboxes and did not write down where the parts were and had to get a new motor/gearbox.  Another owner found the bottom bearing (above 2 items) worn that would bind and stop the feeder.


Overheat switch replacement - no voltage going to motor


Poor fire and fire kept going out
Mike,
    Just to give you a follow up on my stove adventure. It is working great now. As in
Real Estate, location, location, location is the key. Apparently the house this stove came
from had the air intake from under the house, through the base. I have no opening in my
floor for the base to suck air. Sitting on a stone slab made for stoves, it could not get
any air coming into the firebox. With a long bar, I was able to bend a plate out of the
way so now it sucks air into the stove without a problem.
    I like it so well now, I am purchasing another stove, exactly like mine, for $375,
including delivery. It supposedly has a bad switch for the "on-off". I plan to use it in
my shop, or as a parts stove if necessary.
    Thanks for your help,


Pellets not dropping all the time - fire going out.

Told them to get a fiber washer.  He was not too mechanical but was going to try it.

Mike,

Wanted to say "thanks" so much for your reply .  It took a few days (we had a snowstorm) but we did get to a "real" hardware store, got the bushing, fired her up and have to say we're running better than ever.  I guess it was problematic before we actually realized it. 


Yep: great advise. My stove just quit operating properly, would cut out and auger would NOT turn. I Emptied the hopper many times and cleaned out and manually turned the auger. Would then work until turn off and then back on. My fire was NOT bright and dancing. Then read your input on cleaning the screen on the outside pipe. Sure enough, was half plugged. Stove immediately worked. Fire was big, bright, hot, did NOT need to adjust air intake. What was happening , was exhaust was not exiting properly and the fire was inconsistent and chinking the pellets causing smoke and soot and heat to go UP the auger drop making the auger not wanting to turn. NOW is perfect. Thanks Larry


  Pellet stove stored - would not work after long storage

Because the pellet stove sat in a barn for so long it was exposed to some moisture. The auger was corroded & froze up. I took the auger out & wire brushed it to clean it all up. The motor still was not spinning properly. after sanding the shaft on the motor & lubricating it, it ran just fine!

Thanks for all your help!
Kevin


Auger getting Jammed

I just wanted to let you know about my adventures with my Whitfield Pellet Fireplace Insert.  It is a 1992 advantate II or III.  The motor turns the auger for a while and then it seems to jam up.  I pulled the auger out and saw that there was no debris getting in the way.  Reinstalled and put in new pellets and the same problem returned.  I noticed that the problem was worse when the hopper was full.  When it was almost empty, it seemed to operate ok, just a little slow.  If I reach back and pull the motor/gearbox over, it will dump a pile of pellets.  Although, it took a lot of strength to pull it off the stop bar.  Once I got some play, it would move pretty freely.  Once the motor turns back around it will jam after about 30 seconds. 
     Mike, one guy on your site seemed to have a similar problem and found the fix by replacing the bushings.  My bushings looked good and I did not see any groove.  I called Lennox and their tech person, Randall was easy to reach and helpful.  He told me to get all the pellets out of the hopper, remove the motor and than hit the auger shaft with a hammer a few times.  This would pop the upper bearing back into place and would most likely fix my problem.  He also told me that they do not sell the upper bushing which can not be removed, only the lower one which comes with the plate. 
      So, I emptied the hopper and removed the auger again just to double check that everything looked normal inside.  Then reinstalled it and hit the shaft with a hammer a few times.  This did not seem to fix my problem.  So, I ordered the lower bushing with plate from Lennox.  The new plate is "upgraded" with a plastic bushing that has a nut on the back side.  My old bushing wobbled in the plate so I was happy to see that it could be locked down.  I am not sure how long that plastic bushing will hold up, but we will see.  The bushing seemed to be installed backwards on the plate.  The nut was on the inside of the plate so that, once installed, the pellets were getting crunched up against it.  Mike, I found a picture on your site that showed the nut on the motor side of the plate and reinstalled it correctly.  That seemed to do the trick. 
       I have run the stove for 24 hours now and it seems to be working great.  The lower bushing and plate is called the Auger Flange and cost me $77 with shipping to my local store.  The plate even has a small piece of foam on it which seems to cut down on the noise of the motor.  Thanks for all you help both of you.
Charles
Santa Rosa, CA


Whitfield auger making noise


This is a Whitfield Profile 30 - Same problem, motor washer worn

MIKE
Thank Goodness For U & You're Site
This Stove Was Installed March Of 2001
So As Far As I Can Figure Out It Was An Original Profile 30 Insert
The Manual U Sent Is For The Newer Model "Easy Access"
Eye
The Eye In This One  Reads Through A Little Slit In The Feed Wall & The Stove Has To Be Disassembled To Get At It
I Can See It Being A Hard One To Get Dirty
But That Was Not Our Problem
Pellet Feed As U Say
The Motor Armature Had A Least 1/8" Play Or More
On The Back Side Of The Armature There Was A Blue Spacer & A Washer So Thin I Missed It The First Time Around
Salvaged From A Paper Dispenser Was A 10" Length Of High Mol. Weight Plastic With Exactly The Perfect Size Of Hole In It To Fit The Armature Shaft
I Made A Stepped Bushing To Replace The Blue Spacer & The Spacer Washer On The Wood Lathe
Took 2 Tries To Get The Proper Thickness But Only Takes A matter Of Minutes To Make One
The Other Thing We Found Was A Build Up Of Fines (Sawdust) In The Auger Area
Whether Or Not This Had A Bearing Or Not If Questionable
She Has Fired Up A Dozen Times Now & Hasn't Missed A Beat
When We Rec'd This Unit  It's Factory Carton Had A Extra Label On It With The Word "ENHANCED" Stamped On It
I Asked A Service Person What That Meant & He Stated It Didn't Pass Its Inspections So Would Have Been Pulled & What Ever Redone In The Factory Before It Was Sold
Anyhow Again MANY, MANY THANKS TO YOU
TOM M.

I just had to replace the bushings on my Whitfield Advantage 2 that I have used for about 13 years every winter. When I purchased the lower bearing on the auger I found that You cannot order only the bearing but you must buy the NEW REPLACEMENT “KIT” that includes the Iron plate that could never wear out in the first place and the bushing that come with it is NOT BRASS but PLASTIC !!
The Kit cost me $82.00 plus change.  Just out of curiosity I went down to my local hardware store and found the “EXACT ” bushing that fits perfectly for $2.50 !!!! IT is BRASS !!  I used my old bottom plate and the new BRASS bushing and returned the $82.00 kit.
Moral of this story is to be a little creative and shop around you might save yourself some money. I also ordered the replacement motor for this stove on Ebay and got it for HALF PRICE.


-- NO POWER AT ALL WHEN TURNED ON --

Mike,

Thanks so much for your suggestions.  When my son pulled open the door (it was resisting a bit) to expose the back panel, lo and behold, the plug popped out – the one to/from the blower motor, that is.  Apparently it had come loose – enough so that there was no connection when the Start button was pushed.  He simply plugged it in securely, and the stove is fine.

So glad we didn’t call the repairman for $229.00 to walk in the door.  And now I have the repair manual as well.

Many, many thanks.


-- Stove will not stay light --

Mike
Just thought you would want to know. You were right to some extent. We did still have a clog, but not in the chimney. The model we have is an odd ball, you might want to put this on your site.  There is  no clean out panel, behind the bricks. What it has is two 1.5 inch circles on either side of the fire box, covered with a plug. They look like they are welded into place. (I am sure you have run across them before.) Anyway that is where the smoke goes to be exhausted out. They were filled to the hilt with soot and big chunks of build up. Now it seems to be working fine. Again thank you for your time. Sincerely Mona Goetzinger


I don't know if you can help me but I need some help with my Profile 30 Whitfield.
 The problem started with the blower just shutting off while the stove was running along just fine.  I would simply push the off/on switch and the stove
resumed operation. 
 Now, when you start the stove from a cold start, it fires off as normal but then the Auger motor doesn't turn back on to feed the pellets necessary to
sustain burning.  The initial load of pellets burn down until the fire goes out or almost out and then it goes into the startup mode again.

This person wrote back, she cleaned the Electric Eye.. working again !


 
I wanted to pass on this information. I have installed a Lennox Montage pellet stove control board on my Advantage II insert successfully.
A tip from my local stove shop, [Stove Keepers, Brookline, NH] the wiring in the Montage and Advantage II are nearly identical and the control board is a direct plug and go replacement.
http://pelletsandstoves.com/index.php/Pellet-Stoves-K-through-O/Lennox/Montage-Freestanding/Lennox-Montage-Owners-Manual.html
Your site has been indispensable in rehabilitating a stove I received for free off Craig's List.

 


Found a place that will REPAIR your control panel  CLICK HERE


Another place that will repair many different control panels   CLICK FOR THEIR WEB SITE
(Heatwave Electronics. (heatwaveelectronics@gmail.com ) 530-820-3700

<I am now repairing the controller pcb for these and several other models (Waterford, Lopi, Earth Stove, etc.) for  $125.00.  I guarantee the repairs for a year and if I can't fix one, which hasn't happened yet, I charge $25.00 to cover return shipping and the time it takes to run it through my test fixture or offer to keep their controller and waive the $25.00 fee.  There are proprietary parts and other parts that are no longer manufactured.  I am also in the process of re-engineering some pcbs to replace these units at a fraction of any other company's offerings I can find.  I want to be fair and remain attractive. There is just no honest way to charge $270-$530 for a replacement controller in this day and age (not to mention this economy.)

I began doing this a few months ago when I found that many people have these stoves that don't heat their home and never will because the manufacturers either aren't in business or won't help at a reasonable fee.

I have 30+ years in the electronic engineering industry, mostly out of silicon valley, and have reversed engineered, drawn up schematics and pcb layouts, test and repair procedures and a parts inventory to give a quick turn around. >


Or this place will REPAIR your control panel  CLICK HERE

If you contact any of the above... tell me how it works out.


Pellet stove forum..  http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewforum/22

Links: Pellet Heat organization - lots of links to Pellet Stove manufactures

Energex: more links to Pellet Stoves

Closed companies and were to search

A forum for pellet stoves - www.stove and spas.com

--- Pellet Stove parts -  parts -  parts ---

Amazon.com also sells pellet auger for various makes

Flemington, N.J. Pellet Stoves - Harman and Austroflam stoves.  Plus they sell and deliver pellets within a defined area.  http://www.gottahaveitpool.com

Amazon.com exhaust fan

Pellet stove parts (2007)

Whitfield Pellet Stove Parts

Energy parts plus

Pellet Stove wholesale

Stoves Unlimited

Pellet Stove Pro - Video and parts (He sells on E-bay too) and can ship fast if needed.

Martin Pellet stove circuit boards

Winrich pellet stove parts

Someone on E-bay with parts

Pellet stove parts

Pellet stove motors - Another store - Great pricing ! !

Pellet Stove Parts

I Burn Corn forum - There seems to be pellet stove users there too

 

This is a price list of a company no longer in business. $145 for the fan ! ! ! !

parts places

Parts for Whitfield stoves and others - www.hearthtools.com

Wood Heat Stoves

Kitsap Lumber 

Hearth Net

Pellet Stove Pro

Andy Silven 
Oregon Stoves and Spas (Oct. 2006)
www.StovesandSpas.com

A location for pellet stove parts... (just type "pellet stove" in the search

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fireplace/fireplace_overview.htm

 

Try this place for replacement fans emotorstore.com  800 922 1882

Another site to try
energypartsplus.com

1-877-977-2787

They are in El Dorado, Calif.

Clint Ayer
This seller on www.ebay.com has the whitfield auger bushing.  I got one just to have on hand.
Replacement motor from GRANGER... $89 ! for many stoves including Whitfield.

Grainger’s motor has 100in-lb torque and is much beefier (maybe 30% more coils and plates) than the original, if eyeballing the size is valid. My Whitfield gear motor electric wires are the same color; it does not matter which spade connector is attached to either motor side, it is “60hz alternating”. This motor is not as silent as the original, but it certainly is a capable replacement. I got to where I could take the motor on and off in less than 5min.

 I did add a nylon washer (to augment the blue spacer) to the shaft of the rotor on the old gear motor; that did not help. It was a good tip to check it.

 I did several things to “reduce the torque requirement, as in preventing the pellets from jamming. A key discovery is that the auger needs a washer to get it as high up the shaft as possible. The pellets would jam at both the bottom of the auger and at the top of the augur. You need al the clearance you can get to prevent pellets  from being crushed by one mechanism or another at each end of the augur.  While the band-aids worked for a while, feeding was still not reliable with the old weakened motor. I eventually came to believe that the gearmotor was stalling due to a loss of torque, even thaough the torque felt great when if test it against my own “hand resistance” on a bench. I MUST BE GETTING OLD AND WEAK myself! I am not sure why aging loses torque as this motor does not have magnets to degrade.

From: Swarren

 

M. Butkus